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Great Wall of China at Badaling section
Only a 70 km (44 miles) drive from Beijing, Badaling is the most visited section of the Great Wall. Constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), Badaling underwent extensive reconstruction during the 1950s and 1980s and now features amenities that invading barbarians would certainly kill for, from cablecar rides to snack stands, caged bears, souvenir shops and restaurants, not to mention air-conditioned tour bus travel down the Badaling Expressway, which links this length of wall to the capital.
With all the extras and the site's popularity, those seeking a less crowded and commercialized experiences may want to head further out to Simatai, Jinshanling or other spots. But for those on a tight schedule who want to get in a visit to a prime length of the Great Wall, Badaling makes for an excellent day trip. Despite all the commercial trappings and crowds, a walk along the Badaling wall can be a stunning experience.
With a little effort (the climbs can be steep, hence the cable car), you can gain commanding views of the surrounding countryside and get a strong sense of the overall grandeur and expanse of the world's most famous (if ineffectual) defense project. From Ming-era watchtowers, it's a pleasure to take in views of the ancient wall as it snakes its way into distant, rugged hills. An off-season visit can be a real delight, especially after a snowfall when the wall's dark brick makes for a striking contrast against the white slopes and ridges.
Great Wall of China at Yuyongguan Pass section
A great wall needs at least one great pass, and, by Chinese estimation (they ought to know), Juyongguan is one of three great passes punctuating the ancient defensive line as it wends its way across northern China. The other two mark either end of the wall, with Shanhaiguan to the east overlooking the Yellow sea and Jianyuguan far to the west, marking the western extremity of China's most famous—and the world's largest—landmark.
The pass, a convenient 50 kilometers north of Beijing, is actually the 18 kilometer-long Guangou Valley in which numerous battles have been fought and where Chinese dynastic leaders, starting with the first Qin emperor in the third century BC, have ordered massive defensive works built to protect against frequent forays by aggressive Mongol and Manchu tribesmen.
The northern reach of the pass is the site of Badaling, the most-visited point on the Great Wall, where it runs along rugged ridges and steep slopes. The southern end is known as Nan Pass, and in between the two you'll find the Cloud Platform, a monumental watchtower made of white marble erected during the Yuan Dynasty by the Mongol conquerors whose ancestors had been held at bay for so long on the other side of the Great Wall. At the tower's base, a broad carved archway once let soldiers and warhorses pass through; today, it hosts visitors who come to see the carvings of animals, gods and characters.
The area has changed much over the years, experiencing periods of hubristic monument and fortification building alternating with times of destruction, as one dynasty gave way to another. The present pass is much as the Ming left it, though it has, of course, experienced intensive renovation. The valley and its landmarks make for a lovely spring or fall outing, when the grasses, flowers, trees and weather are all likely to be at their best.
Great Wall of China at Mutianyu section
Located in Huairou County, about 70 km from Beijing, the Mutianyu segment of the Great Wall connects with Juyongguan (Juyong Pass) to the west, and the Gubeikou Gateway to the east—two of the Wall's historically key strategic points.
With a length of 2,250 meters, Mutianyu Great Wall has 22 towers—the highest at an altitude of 540 meters. Tourists can climb the Great Wall along the ancient road of Mutianyu Guan (Mutianyu Pass), but there's a cable car if you'd like to avoid the hike. Walk along the ancient way from Mutianyu Village for about two kilometers, you will arrive at the gate of Mutianyu Pass. The structure of this gate is unique, quite different from that of Badaling, Shanhai Guan or Yanmenguan.
The Mutianyu section of the Great Wall is located on Jundu Mountain A multitude of well labeled trees thrive and vegetation coverage is more than 70%. Natural springs trickle all over the mountain. The four seasons each bring their own special changes to the scenery; beautiful flowers blossom all over the mountain in the spring; trees are especially green in the summer; snow-capped peaks in the winter and most charming of all is Autumn, when heavy fruit bends branches and colorful leaves cover the whole mountain.
Great Wall of China at Simatai section
The Simatai section of the Great Wall, located near Gubeikou, is known for its steepness as it plunges and climbs to the east and west of Simatai Reservoir. Like most of the Wall, much of this section has been reconstructed, but there is plenty left from the Ming Dynasty reconstruction under the leadership of General Qi Jiguang, which is one of the reasons UNESCO recognizes this part of the wall as a heritage site.
This is a whimsical part of the wall with many unique features and strenuous climbs, unsuitable for anyone with a fear of heights (particularly from narrow bridges). Both the eastern and western halves follow the rugged hillside terrain with great views from several watchtowers. The Fairy Tower is one of the most beautiful of the whole Wall with a white marble entry carved with lotus flowers. Past that is Wangjing Tower, the highest point around, where on a clear day, you can see Beijing over a hundred kilometers away.
Temple of Heaven
The Temple of Heaven (Tiantan), completed in 1420 during the reign of the Ming Yongle Emperor, was the most sacred space in which the emperor—also known as the Son of Heaven—performed the most important sacrifices and rites.
The gods of earth, water, war, and civilian affairs were all honored, but it was the god of agriculture who received special attention. On the winter solstice, the emperor, after ritual fasts and purification, would beseech Heaven for bountiful harvests.
The temple's layout reflects the Confucian worldview that anchored the imperial order. The square base represents Earth, the circular temple represents Heaven, and the emperor symbolically serves as intermediary between human beings and the divine order.
The most distinctive temple in the complex, and one of the most famous buildings in China is the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, which sits at the end of a stately set of subordinate structures—the Round Altar, the Imperial Vault of Heaven and "Echo Wall"—aligned on a north-south axis in line with the Forbidden City to the north.
The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests meets visitors at their final approach with a sublime dignity, rising in perfect circular form from a three-tiered stone base. The temple structure itself is painted in rich hues and capped at the apex of its conical blue-tiled roof by a golden ball.
If you catch the building on the right day at the right time—early morning or as dusk approaches—sunlight illuminates the it, creating the illusion of an internal glow. At such a moment, it doesn't take much to imagine the richly robed emperor ascending the steps of the Round Altar to take the Throne of Heaven.
The Throne is gone, as are the imperial days—the Temple has been open to the public since 1912 and the revolution that dispensed with the Qing Dynasty—but it's still possible to feel why so many Chinese believed for so long that this was the center of the world.
Bird’s Nest
The Olympic Greens, Beijing's newest urban parkland, are great for walking and sightseeing—they're full of Olympic-themed sculpture, art and fun rest spots. To get to the Bird's Nest, walk north on Beichen Lu, and soon you'll see it on your right with the Watercube on your left.
The Bird's Nest—officially known as Beijing National Stadium—is easily the most iconic of Beijing's Olympic structures. If you were lucky enough to score Olympic tickets, you'll be one of the privileged few to appreciate Herzog and deMeuron's architectural masterpiece up close.
Monstrous steel elements weighing up to 350 tons a piece have been intertwined in a way that actually makes this gargantuan structure look delicate. The building has received both praise and criticism for its unconventional and potentially risky design—over 70% of the building's weight hangs over the audience's head.
Critics notwithstanding, there's no doubt the Bird's Nest represents a massive accomplishment for the Chinese. As an architectural marvel, an unmistakable landmark and an iconic Olympic image, it will undoubtedly be a source of pride for years to come.
Forbidden City
Along with the Great Wall, the Forbidden City is a must-see site in Beijing. In the afternoon sunshine, the red walls and golden roof tiles cast a glow across the vast courtyards of this symbol of China's mighty imperial past. If pressed for time, try to spend at least half a day exploring; if you have more time, consider return trips—the Forbidden City's stately spaces and myriad treasures are best lingered over. Try to avoid weekends and holidays when crowds peak. If you're in a hurry, a tour guide can help you understand the significance of what you're seeing; if you have time, you might choose to explore on your own with a guidebook.
The world's largest palace complex, the Forbidden City (Gugong or Zijincheng) covers 720,000 square meters (0.3 square miles). The southern Tiananmen Gate—one of four gates connecting the palace to the outside world—serves as the main entrance. After passing through it, you'll come to an interior gate, the Meridian Gate (Wumen) that leads to the heart of the complex. Beyond the Meridian Gate, a vast courtyard extends toward the Gate of Supreme Harmony (Taihemen). Thereafter, the complex is divided into two sections: the Inner Court's imperial living quarters and the Outer Court. The Outer Court begins with the massive Hall of Supreme Harmony (it's China's largest wooden structure). This was a key site for the imperial court, where the highest-level official business took place, including ceremonies like the enthronement of the Crown Prince, the Emperor's birthday celebration and imperial marriages. The hall is decorated with thousands of dragons, a traditional symbol of imperial power. Beyond lies the Midway Hall of Harmony, where the emperor prepared for public appearances. It was also used by the Emperor to take up agricultural matters—a crucial responsibility in times when poor harvests and the specter of famine could threaten imperial legitimacy.
The Inner Court truly begins with the Hall of Heavenly Purity, where the emperor, his concubines and eunuchs lived (eunuchs were deemed harmless around the emperor's consorts, though they often proved dangerous when it came to court intrigue and power games). The emperor himself resided within the Hall of Heavenly Purity; during the Ming Dynasty, the Empress lived in the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, with the Hall of Union standing between their quarters. Finally, the Imperial Gardens lie beyond the Inner Court buildings, consisting of exquisitely landscaped grounds and more important structures, including the Hall of Mental Cultivation and the Palace of Tranquil Longevity. A number of imperial artifacts are on view in various locations throughout the Forbidden City. Note that many buildings are being renovated and not everything is open to the public.
Summer Palace
An excellent expression of China's imperial spirit, the Summer Palace should be explored at leisure, even if it means setting aside a full day just to wander around soaking up the atmosphere. That said, if you're short on time, even a few hours exploring the halls, courtyards, pavilions, temples and wooded hillsides of this opulent lakeside retreat should prove a highlight of your Beijing visit.
Today's Summer Palace (Yíhe Yuan or "Garden of Nurtured Harmony") owes a lot to late-imperial historical circumstance: after its predecessors, including the Old Summer Palace, were destroyed by marauding Anglo-French forces, first in 1860 (Second Opium War), and then again in 1900 (Boxer Rebellion). The Emperor Dowager Cixi, while presiding over the downfall of imperial China, made certain that its final years wouldn't go without a Summer Palace and poured resources—including silver earmarked for upgrading the Chinese navy—into rebuilding the ravaged pleasure grounds, completing the restoration in 1902, a scant decade before the ultimate fall of the Qing. Though she failed to keep China together, she did a bang-up job on restoring the imperial getaway.
Originally known as the "Garden of Clear Ripples," the site was established in 1750 by the Emperor Qianlong. Kunming Lake was enlarged and shaped in imitation of Xi Hu (West Lake) in Hangzhou and Longevity Hill (Wan Shou Shan) was enlarged using earth excavated from the new lake bed. The gardens survived the two Anglo-French attacks, and the burned and looted buildings were rebuilt and expanded upon after both. Today, the Summer Palace grounds are the largest preserved imperial-era garden in China, occupying some 117 hectares (290 acres). Once inside, a host of sights await exploration, from the Duobao Glazed Pagoda atop Longevity Hill, to the painting-lined Long Corridor, to the lake's Marble Boat and temple-dotted Nanhu Island, reached by the elegant Seventeen Arch Bridge.
Tiananmen Square
Standing in the middle of Tian'anmen Square (Tian'anmen Guangchang), one is confronted with overwhelming representations of China's past and present powers-that-be, cast in an immense space that dramatizes China's modern history in spectacular fashion. On ground where the Emperor's high officials once did their business in classical courtyards and halls, one now finds the world's largest square, with Mao's Mausoleum, the Great Hall of the People and the Monument to the People's Heroes defining a space both austere and grand—and saturated with history and its ironies.
The Forbidden City's outer entrance, the Gate of Heavenly Peace, stands at the north end, with Mao Zedong's immense portrait fixed to a gate that once admitted only those closest to Emperor and his court. Today, Mao's image looks down on throngs of tourists armed with cameras; scant decades ago, the living Mao reviewed troop formations and assembled masses waving Little Red Books in fervent support of the Cultural Revolution from atop the Gate of Heavenly Peace—the same spot from which he declared the founding of the PRC in 1949. Of course Tian'nmen is also where, following the reforms that began to open China up to the outside world during the 1980s, tens of thousands of demonstrators called for further political reforms before being met in 1989 with the full (and deadly) force of state power—a historical moment that continues to define what is and isn't permitted in the People's Republic.
Despite the weight of history, on a sunny day the square can be a surprisingly light-hearted place, with kids flying kites, and Chinese families and tour groups paying cheerful homage to Mao, the heroes of the Revolution and the China that they were so instrumental in creating. Crowds thicken toward dusk and dawn at the north end of the Square to witness the People's Liberation Army honor guard raising and retiring of the flag opposite the Gate of Heavenly Peace. At such moments, it's easy to imagine the humming energy of Beijing and, beyond, all of China surrounding this symbolic center. At night, the Square's often imposing feel softens, as the lights of the city cast a warm glow across Tian'nmen and individual couples stroll arm-in-arm, sharing intimate moments in this space made for the masses.
Ming Tombs
Once you've seen the Forbidden City, where all but two of fifteen Ming emperors lived, take a trip out to their final resting place, the Ming Tombs (Shisan Ling or literally the Thirteen Tombs).
The third Ming emperor, Yongle (1402-1424) chose the site based on its excellent feng shui and the harmonic balance of wooded mountains to the north, rich dark earth and calm waters is as pleasant today as it must have been at the time when it was chosen as the last resting place of emperors.
Only three of the tombs are presently open to the public, though plans are afoot to excavate and open others. Covering a huge area, the tombs are located some 50 km (30 miles) northwest of the Beijing.
The approach to the tombs, known as the Spirit Way (shendao) presents visitors with the first of the numerous gates and arches that comprise the Confucian design, with each of the thirteen tombs following a standard layout consisting of a main gate, sequential linked courtyards, halls, gates and arches leading to the Soul Tower (ming lou) and burial mound. Stylized statues of various animals, mythical and actual, along with those of imperial officials line the Soul Way and approaches to the individual tombs.
The overall effect of the sober Confucian design is subtle, lacking the concentrated grandeur of the Forbidden City or the color and vibrancy of Daoist and Buddhist temples, but if you visit on the right day the site's combination of natural beauty and carefully measured design can charm and even mystify.
As for the individual tombs, Changling, the earliest and largest of the tombs, dates from 1413 and houses the remains of Yongle himself. Dingling, constructed in the 16th century for Emperor Wanli, was excavated in the 1950s; visitors can descend into the burial mound's vault and view many of the treasures buried with the emperor. Zhaoling, the least visited among the three, houses the remains of Emperor Longqing and can make for a quiet alternative to the more popular Changling and Dingling.
Note that most visitors come to the tombs on day trips with tour groups, usually combined with a visit to the Great Wall at Badaling. This works out well for many, but those who prefer not to be herded through the sites on a schedule are advised to arrange private transportation.
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